Tuesday September 22
The Atherton Tablelands (no comments about MA Atherton, especially none about slipping over in sight of a milestone.)
Today was spent in the company of Captain Kiwi Matty, a friendly and informative tour guide on a day that took us to three rainforest swims, the site of a famous Aboriginal folk tale, a town - if it could be called that - straight from the 1970s, and a chocolate and cheese factory. The clue of what the guide was called and where he was from came in his name. The Captain comes from being Coach Captain as opposed to bus driver, as he was far more than that.
The day started with a 0730 pick up outside the hostel, and once everyone was on board Captain Kiwi soon developed a rapport with the group and slang for everyone - the three from Kazakhs were 'Kazakhstan', a hairdresser from Shrewsbury 'Porn Star', his friend 'Blondie' and his Mum 'Mum.' I think you can see where he was coming from. He also said that he had recently called a German girl Blondie, a name to which she objected as it was the name of Hitler's dog!
The first stop was at Barribinda Falls, an amazing collection of giant boulders with water flowing through them. The legend has it that they were formed by a girl who cried for a month after her lover was banished by his tribe. After she commited suicide by jumping off the cliff the legend came into being that her spirit haunts the waters. 25 males betwenn 18 and 22 have drowned there, all receiving the same marks to their body. Her spirit is said to drag them underwater to kiss them, believing them to be her lover, before realising that they are not. By this time, of course, the human has drowned.
Next stop Josephine Falls - a large pool of water surrounded by rocks of various sizes, and a naturally occuring slide to slide down into the pool where we all, bar one, went for a swim. At this point I should admit to a fairly major error on my part - no towel. However, given the heat drying out wasn't much of a problem. More of a problem was the lack of swimming costume so, after not much thought I went in with my underpants on. Very chilly it is fair to say, but once in it was a great experience. After clambering up one large rock and slipping and sliding across it, I found myself at the top of the cascade of water, about 15feet in length, ready to hurl you back down to the calm pool. In the middle of a rainforest, could you experience anyhting better? Well, as it turned out, you could.
The second swim was at Millaa Millaa falls, up in the heart of the Tablelands, 720m above sea level, in a volcanic area - the falls are 10,000 years old. However, its claim to fame is that it was herethat the video for Peter Andre's 'Mysterious Girl' was shot. With this in mind, in we went. This time it was freezing cold but so incredibly refreshing that I felt like I was as good as new. A short swim to the falls themselves - the splash of the falls hitting the pool was quite fearsome. Stop short, brace yourself, shut your eyes and clamber through, thousands of tiny sharp shocks against the skin. Then, clear again, and pull up onto the rocks and sit on the reverse side of the falls, the sun streaming through. Warming, beautiful. Then the return journey, and stand in the sun to dry off, discussing Rugby Union with the Captain. (I forgot to mention that the whole experience was watched by a coachful of Japanese tourists.)
The third and final swim was at Lake Eacham, a huge circular lake enclosed completely by the ageing rainforest. This time there was a jetty to throw yourself from - the water was lovely and cool again, but not as cold as before, with pockets of beautifully warm water. It was a little bit like swimming in a dream. After this we plunged 6 1/2 km down through the Gillies Range, with 250 turns along the way. On a couple of occasions we see the forest burning, but this was not wildfire but friendly fire - fires started deliberately, not as hot as wildfire, so as to turn some of the trees to charcoal which will trap nutrients in the ground for the plants. It also causes some seeds to open and distribute, which only happens at a great heat.
This was an excellent day's trip, great value at $50, and an excellent way to end a six day stay in Cairns. Next stop Airlie Beach.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Australia: Cairns and around 16-22 September Part 2 The Reef
Saturday September 20
It's fair to say that I spent a lot of today on my back.
I woke sporadically during the night, as is usually the case when I don't want to oversleep (which I never do anyway). Awake properly at 5 so give up. Go for a walk at 6 and buy some suncream, then a quick walk around, the air fresh, the sun coming up. Check out of the hostel at 640, the sun is up now and it is hot already! Walk along to the Marina to board.
'Boarding begins at 0715' proclaims a sign by the boat, and since that is 25 minutes away I go for a further exploration, up past restaturants to the end of the pier, looking out across high hills. When the time comes, check in and pay $10 for the hire of a wetsuit for the two days and eat a bacon and egg roll (which would turn out to be a bad idea - I should have known, I don't like egg). The boat departs and all is fine, a beautiful view behind us as we pull out of Cairns, gushing waves in the slipstream of the boar, two dolphins leaping out of the water in a carefully designed arc. And then the queasiness begins, so I lie down clutching my camera to my chest and shut my eyes. Bearable. The boat slows as we arrive at the much larger boat where I will be spending the next 24 hours or so. Out baggage is passed over and after a few minutes wait we are shipped round to the other side of the boat to board on a little dinghy with a small motor.
After a brief introduction we are shown our dorms - very small, I'm in a 3 at first with two girls though the offer of another room once clean is there. Decided to stay to be sociable. The room is down some steep steps, and it is, with no irony lost on me subsequently, Room 101. Then, at 1030, the adventure really begins, as we don out wetsuits for the first time and, feeling a little like James Herriot on his first trip to Angus Grier, I descend into the ocean and begin to examine the Great Barrier Reef.
Bizarre and wonderous simultaneously, fish and coral living together, colours changing by the second. Some corals throbbing, others huge and alien like, the fish moving between them - large, small, long, short. One moves past, a lovely turquoise and blue, another similar but more of a shocking purple. What look like Zebra fish, some yellow and black ones. You can swim yourself around, or you can relax and let the current take you where it will. Time has no meaning here, nor should it - I have no idea of how long I am out there but it was probably 45 minutes. All thoughts of queasiness pass.
Back on the ship, however, they soon return, and as I sat down for lunch at 1200 I gave in. I could only hope that the old adage 'What goes up must come down' would not be reversed again. Lunch - a lovely creamy pasta, improves the feeling slightly. Then, before you knew it, I was being breifed for the introductory dive, free though essentially pointless if you didn't go down afterwards. Once here though, there is little point in not doing it! So, after a little panic when I couldn't blow the water out of the mouth piece, I and the others - 4 Norwegians - were ready to go. It was a singular experience. Sinking deeper to see the coral further down. Touched one of the moving corals, picked up by the Danish guide, then we see a Moray Eel! Long, quite tall and thin, hiding in amongst the coral low down. Quite rare apparently in this area. After one more little wobble everything is fine and by the end (25 minutes or so) I am quite relaced and moving nicely - although apparently at one point I kicked the mask off the guy behind me! And then, slowly, with our vests inflated again by the guide, we rise above water. A wonderful experience.
Now the boat moves to a different reef, so I lie down on the sofa in the 'bar area' and shut my eyes, feeling a little delicate. 1530 - a new location, a different coral, more snorkelling. Different this time, the coral much closer to the surface, sometimes I felt as if I was going to fall into it. Followed some heavily blue fish around for a while, but I seem to get cold quicker this time, exit at 1620 and shower, then to the sofa, as I can't seem to stand up without feeling sick. Drift in and out of consciousness as the boat rocks - it's fair to say that I couldn't have been a Pirate Radio DJ.
Tea, curry, then out on the deck to watch some little sharks swimming around the boat, perhaps 2 and a half feet long. Others go for a night dive ($85) but I stay and eavesdrop on a lesson going on - the ins and outs of decompressionn. Four dives maximum a day. At 18m the maximum time you can spend under water is 50 minutes; at 39m it is 5 minutes. All to do with the amount of nitrogen being taken into the body. The deeper you go, the higher the pressure and the more nitrogen you take into your body. Feeling queasy again! Suffering for a great experience. Makes a Whitsundays trip seem a little unlikely.
Monday September 21
After lying down for a rest in the other cabin at 1900 for a rest, I awake to discover that it is 430am the following morning and that, touch wood, I feel a lot better. After lying for an hour, I get up and, with camera, go to the top deck to watch the sunrise. To begin with, just some orange on the clouds, countering the darkness of the sea and sky. Then a burst of light as the sun inches over the horizon. Worth yesterday to see this. A snorkely at 0630, well worth it. Hundreds of little blue fish swimming amongst an open coral, a huge 3ft fish near the boat, a turtle swimming and a 2ft shark! Back to boat for breakfast. Boat moves again so I curl up on the sofa. A snorkely at the final coral of the trip, this one more like you imagine from pictures - cliffs of coral falling down into the murky depths. Breath slows almost to a standstill until you are taken by a large wave and hurled elsewhere to see some more. Larger single corals, some like giant mushrooms, others like an alien eye watching you as you swim past.
Out, dry in the sun, then shower properly before lunch. Transfer to the boat to return - very full, so claim a seat downstairs and, not feeling the last snorkel, pull my hat down over my eyes and retire to the world of Big Finish podcasts to keep me alive for the next 4 hours. God bless Nick Briggs and David Richardson! Very glad to get back on dry, and still, land!
Next time: The Atherton Tablelands
It's fair to say that I spent a lot of today on my back.
I woke sporadically during the night, as is usually the case when I don't want to oversleep (which I never do anyway). Awake properly at 5 so give up. Go for a walk at 6 and buy some suncream, then a quick walk around, the air fresh, the sun coming up. Check out of the hostel at 640, the sun is up now and it is hot already! Walk along to the Marina to board.
'Boarding begins at 0715' proclaims a sign by the boat, and since that is 25 minutes away I go for a further exploration, up past restaturants to the end of the pier, looking out across high hills. When the time comes, check in and pay $10 for the hire of a wetsuit for the two days and eat a bacon and egg roll (which would turn out to be a bad idea - I should have known, I don't like egg). The boat departs and all is fine, a beautiful view behind us as we pull out of Cairns, gushing waves in the slipstream of the boar, two dolphins leaping out of the water in a carefully designed arc. And then the queasiness begins, so I lie down clutching my camera to my chest and shut my eyes. Bearable. The boat slows as we arrive at the much larger boat where I will be spending the next 24 hours or so. Out baggage is passed over and after a few minutes wait we are shipped round to the other side of the boat to board on a little dinghy with a small motor.
After a brief introduction we are shown our dorms - very small, I'm in a 3 at first with two girls though the offer of another room once clean is there. Decided to stay to be sociable. The room is down some steep steps, and it is, with no irony lost on me subsequently, Room 101. Then, at 1030, the adventure really begins, as we don out wetsuits for the first time and, feeling a little like James Herriot on his first trip to Angus Grier, I descend into the ocean and begin to examine the Great Barrier Reef.
Bizarre and wonderous simultaneously, fish and coral living together, colours changing by the second. Some corals throbbing, others huge and alien like, the fish moving between them - large, small, long, short. One moves past, a lovely turquoise and blue, another similar but more of a shocking purple. What look like Zebra fish, some yellow and black ones. You can swim yourself around, or you can relax and let the current take you where it will. Time has no meaning here, nor should it - I have no idea of how long I am out there but it was probably 45 minutes. All thoughts of queasiness pass.
Back on the ship, however, they soon return, and as I sat down for lunch at 1200 I gave in. I could only hope that the old adage 'What goes up must come down' would not be reversed again. Lunch - a lovely creamy pasta, improves the feeling slightly. Then, before you knew it, I was being breifed for the introductory dive, free though essentially pointless if you didn't go down afterwards. Once here though, there is little point in not doing it! So, after a little panic when I couldn't blow the water out of the mouth piece, I and the others - 4 Norwegians - were ready to go. It was a singular experience. Sinking deeper to see the coral further down. Touched one of the moving corals, picked up by the Danish guide, then we see a Moray Eel! Long, quite tall and thin, hiding in amongst the coral low down. Quite rare apparently in this area. After one more little wobble everything is fine and by the end (25 minutes or so) I am quite relaced and moving nicely - although apparently at one point I kicked the mask off the guy behind me! And then, slowly, with our vests inflated again by the guide, we rise above water. A wonderful experience.
Now the boat moves to a different reef, so I lie down on the sofa in the 'bar area' and shut my eyes, feeling a little delicate. 1530 - a new location, a different coral, more snorkelling. Different this time, the coral much closer to the surface, sometimes I felt as if I was going to fall into it. Followed some heavily blue fish around for a while, but I seem to get cold quicker this time, exit at 1620 and shower, then to the sofa, as I can't seem to stand up without feeling sick. Drift in and out of consciousness as the boat rocks - it's fair to say that I couldn't have been a Pirate Radio DJ.
Tea, curry, then out on the deck to watch some little sharks swimming around the boat, perhaps 2 and a half feet long. Others go for a night dive ($85) but I stay and eavesdrop on a lesson going on - the ins and outs of decompressionn. Four dives maximum a day. At 18m the maximum time you can spend under water is 50 minutes; at 39m it is 5 minutes. All to do with the amount of nitrogen being taken into the body. The deeper you go, the higher the pressure and the more nitrogen you take into your body. Feeling queasy again! Suffering for a great experience. Makes a Whitsundays trip seem a little unlikely.
Monday September 21
After lying down for a rest in the other cabin at 1900 for a rest, I awake to discover that it is 430am the following morning and that, touch wood, I feel a lot better. After lying for an hour, I get up and, with camera, go to the top deck to watch the sunrise. To begin with, just some orange on the clouds, countering the darkness of the sea and sky. Then a burst of light as the sun inches over the horizon. Worth yesterday to see this. A snorkely at 0630, well worth it. Hundreds of little blue fish swimming amongst an open coral, a huge 3ft fish near the boat, a turtle swimming and a 2ft shark! Back to boat for breakfast. Boat moves again so I curl up on the sofa. A snorkely at the final coral of the trip, this one more like you imagine from pictures - cliffs of coral falling down into the murky depths. Breath slows almost to a standstill until you are taken by a large wave and hurled elsewhere to see some more. Larger single corals, some like giant mushrooms, others like an alien eye watching you as you swim past.
Out, dry in the sun, then shower properly before lunch. Transfer to the boat to return - very full, so claim a seat downstairs and, not feeling the last snorkel, pull my hat down over my eyes and retire to the world of Big Finish podcasts to keep me alive for the next 4 hours. God bless Nick Briggs and David Richardson! Very glad to get back on dry, and still, land!
Next time: The Atherton Tablelands
Australia: Cairns and around 16-22 September Part 1
After arriving in Cairns late on Wednesday evening, I was soon asleep in the hostel.
Thursday 17th September
Awake at 0605, awoken only a couple of times by people in the corridor (favourite comment: 'My Dad's a millionaire!') but a good nights sleep. Out at 0830, walk down the esplanade, tide in - a few pictures of wildlife, and there are volleyball courts, free to all. One very slightly embarassing moment in a shop when I couldn't work out that coinage was what. And then, still suffering slightly from jet lag it seems, I fall asleep at about 1330 and wake up at 1600! After booking a trip for tomorrow I move to the Lagoon - a free place to swim since there is no real beach here to speak of - unfortunately just after the sun had set, but still enjoyable. Then a trip to the Rhino Bar for my free meal, courtesy of the hostel - Spagetti Bolognese. Passable, but free! Highlights of the Magners League are on a big screen in a place too rowdy for my tastes. Getting old? Never! Lovely temperature in the evening, sit out.
Friday 18th September
Out at 8 and went to Rusty's Market, an open area with dozens of stalls all selling fresh produce, emitting some lovely smells. Purchased 3 peaches and a pinapple (which, alas, I never got around to eating). Booked a trip to go the Great Barrier Reef - amazing how quick and easy it was to part with $310. But, got to be done! (For one reason only, as to be revealed later.)
Waited then for my bus to pick me up for my visit to Kuranda, a town in the middle of the rainforest. After various pick ups around Cairns, a smallish town akin to half of Swindon, we proceeded to the SkyRail station, about 15 minutes outside of Cairns. In little pods you were carried up and over the rain forest, with two stop offs on the way to witness the forest in action. Then the last little trip over to Kuranda. Simple, no. The pod, of which I was the only occupant as I got stuck between two family groups, stopped high. Since I had been told it would stop for a couple of minutes I wasn't too worried. 5 minutes became 10, became 20. In all I spent an hour just dangling over the rainforest with just a Rob Shearman and Nick Briggs podcast for company.
Eventually I reached Karunda and began to explore for 2 hours. It felt like a very old-fashioned American town (not the first time I would feel this) with plenty of shops and places to eat, all in the thrall of the jungle. Had a pie from 'Annabels' - $4.10 for steak and bacon, very tasty. Then a walk along by the river - could have taken a boat trip but decided against it - and then through the forest. No insects or anything of note, just one red-headed bird crossing the path (later found to be a turkey - and the story goes that to cook it you take two stones, put the bird and the stones in the oven for three hours then eat the stones, as the meat on the turkey is so tough as to be inedible). Having felt the very real potential of getting lost and missing the returning train, I jog pack to the station, where a very grumpy attendant swapped my tour token for a ticket. It was a lovely, old-fashioned train, a reddy-brown in colour, and it felt like I could be in the 1800s. It took us back through the hills towards Cairns, with an occasional commentary on the history of the line. It took an hour and forty-five minutes - in early years it would take four and a half hours.
Saturday 19th October
Awake as usual not long after six, to be greeted shortly after by a splendidly received text - Sale 12 Bath 25! After the first peach I had yesterday was not quite ripe, the second this morning was gorgeous. Based on the temperature at 0830 it was going to be a scorcher! Another trip to Rusty's market with a girl from the hostel, and she purchased a local fruit, which smelt a bit like peach, but its taste was sour and left a dark stain on your fingers! From there we went to the Cairns museum ($5 entry) and a relatively small building. It was brought to life by a gent called Cliff, a guide who said to us "if you have a free twenty minutes I'll talk you round." An hour and forty five minutes later we left! Really knew his stuff and took photos of us with crocodile heads, sharks mouths and fish teeth, as well as in a tiny plane - for which he gave us a pilots licence! Learnt lots about phones and fridges, planes and dentists. All this and he looked a little like Rolf Harris! The afternoon was laid back and I went for a swim in the Lagoon, though I would hardly call what I was doing swimming - floating aimlessly with the odd muscle stretch would define it better! - for about half an hour.
Next time: The Great Barrier Reef, seasickness and the Atherton Tablelands.
Thursday 17th September
Awake at 0605, awoken only a couple of times by people in the corridor (favourite comment: 'My Dad's a millionaire!') but a good nights sleep. Out at 0830, walk down the esplanade, tide in - a few pictures of wildlife, and there are volleyball courts, free to all. One very slightly embarassing moment in a shop when I couldn't work out that coinage was what. And then, still suffering slightly from jet lag it seems, I fall asleep at about 1330 and wake up at 1600! After booking a trip for tomorrow I move to the Lagoon - a free place to swim since there is no real beach here to speak of - unfortunately just after the sun had set, but still enjoyable. Then a trip to the Rhino Bar for my free meal, courtesy of the hostel - Spagetti Bolognese. Passable, but free! Highlights of the Magners League are on a big screen in a place too rowdy for my tastes. Getting old? Never! Lovely temperature in the evening, sit out.
Friday 18th September
Out at 8 and went to Rusty's Market, an open area with dozens of stalls all selling fresh produce, emitting some lovely smells. Purchased 3 peaches and a pinapple (which, alas, I never got around to eating). Booked a trip to go the Great Barrier Reef - amazing how quick and easy it was to part with $310. But, got to be done! (For one reason only, as to be revealed later.)
Waited then for my bus to pick me up for my visit to Kuranda, a town in the middle of the rainforest. After various pick ups around Cairns, a smallish town akin to half of Swindon, we proceeded to the SkyRail station, about 15 minutes outside of Cairns. In little pods you were carried up and over the rain forest, with two stop offs on the way to witness the forest in action. Then the last little trip over to Kuranda. Simple, no. The pod, of which I was the only occupant as I got stuck between two family groups, stopped high. Since I had been told it would stop for a couple of minutes I wasn't too worried. 5 minutes became 10, became 20. In all I spent an hour just dangling over the rainforest with just a Rob Shearman and Nick Briggs podcast for company.
Eventually I reached Karunda and began to explore for 2 hours. It felt like a very old-fashioned American town (not the first time I would feel this) with plenty of shops and places to eat, all in the thrall of the jungle. Had a pie from 'Annabels' - $4.10 for steak and bacon, very tasty. Then a walk along by the river - could have taken a boat trip but decided against it - and then through the forest. No insects or anything of note, just one red-headed bird crossing the path (later found to be a turkey - and the story goes that to cook it you take two stones, put the bird and the stones in the oven for three hours then eat the stones, as the meat on the turkey is so tough as to be inedible). Having felt the very real potential of getting lost and missing the returning train, I jog pack to the station, where a very grumpy attendant swapped my tour token for a ticket. It was a lovely, old-fashioned train, a reddy-brown in colour, and it felt like I could be in the 1800s. It took us back through the hills towards Cairns, with an occasional commentary on the history of the line. It took an hour and forty-five minutes - in early years it would take four and a half hours.
Saturday 19th October
Awake as usual not long after six, to be greeted shortly after by a splendidly received text - Sale 12 Bath 25! After the first peach I had yesterday was not quite ripe, the second this morning was gorgeous. Based on the temperature at 0830 it was going to be a scorcher! Another trip to Rusty's market with a girl from the hostel, and she purchased a local fruit, which smelt a bit like peach, but its taste was sour and left a dark stain on your fingers! From there we went to the Cairns museum ($5 entry) and a relatively small building. It was brought to life by a gent called Cliff, a guide who said to us "if you have a free twenty minutes I'll talk you round." An hour and forty five minutes later we left! Really knew his stuff and took photos of us with crocodile heads, sharks mouths and fish teeth, as well as in a tiny plane - for which he gave us a pilots licence! Learnt lots about phones and fridges, planes and dentists. All this and he looked a little like Rolf Harris! The afternoon was laid back and I went for a swim in the Lagoon, though I would hardly call what I was doing swimming - floating aimlessly with the odd muscle stretch would define it better! - for about half an hour.
Next time: The Great Barrier Reef, seasickness and the Atherton Tablelands.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Australian State Cricket
Today was spent, for the second day in a row, at the Adelaide Oval. And, for the second consecutive day, the sun was conspicuous by its absence. At least there was no sign of the sweeping rain that kept interrupting play on the opening day, sending the spectators in the open areas - all three of us - scurrying for cover. Like the first day, the crowd numbered just under one hundred, and they were witness, at regular intervals, to Tasmanian batsman returning to the pavilion. Only a rearguard half century from the Tigers wicketkeeper allowed Tasmania to reach 236. In reply, South Australia had progressed serenely to 190-2, including a century from one of the opening batsmen, by ten past six. At this point I left, as it was only going to get colder, the rain was beginning to arrive, and I didn't want to have to wait ages for a train, as after 7 they revert to one an hour.
As a ground The Adelaide Oval is beautiful, though at present an entire side of the ground is under reconstruction, meaning noise throughout the day, including one machine that, when moving, made a sound remarkably like Chewbacca when he is upset. Different to the MCG, which is an epic ground that can hold 110,000, and from the Gabba in Brisbane, which though only 42,000 could be a very daunting place to go out to bat. Phil Tufnell is a hero there, after once dropping Allan Border three times in two overs.
I shall be back tomorrow, weather permitting, to see Day 3.
Meanwhile, I am working my way through The Return of Sherlock Holmes apace, today listening to 'The Six Napoleons.' Even after listening to them for years, Clive Merrison and Michael Williams are still my favourite Holmes and Watson.
As a ground The Adelaide Oval is beautiful, though at present an entire side of the ground is under reconstruction, meaning noise throughout the day, including one machine that, when moving, made a sound remarkably like Chewbacca when he is upset. Different to the MCG, which is an epic ground that can hold 110,000, and from the Gabba in Brisbane, which though only 42,000 could be a very daunting place to go out to bat. Phil Tufnell is a hero there, after once dropping Allan Border three times in two overs.
I shall be back tomorrow, weather permitting, to see Day 3.
Meanwhile, I am working my way through The Return of Sherlock Holmes apace, today listening to 'The Six Napoleons.' Even after listening to them for years, Clive Merrison and Michael Williams are still my favourite Holmes and Watson.
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